at and about Churchill, Manitoba, Canada last week.  Wow!  Did we ever see polar bears -- at least 72 of them.  We went out onto the tundra with Nature Habitat Adventures and The World Wildlife Fund.  Brutally cold by Texas standards, everything frozen up.  Polar bears, arctic fox, snowy owls, gyrfalcon, rock ptarmigan (a kind of grouse), and a lemming were among the wildlife we observed.  Dwarf spruce trees, frozen lakes, the mile wide Churchill River, Hudson Bay beginning its winter freeze-up, patterned ground, and the Northern Studies Institute established at an old Dew Line (remember that, back when the Russians were coming?) site were among other things we saw.  Nice trip for those who can take the cold.  We wore heavy down parkas and pants over wool and fleece, over silk long johns, with heavy wool fleece lined pac boots.  Locals were out and about in their jackets, and said they'd start wearing winter coats in a couple of weeks.  Temperatures while we were there were generally from single digits to the teens, with wind and snow.  The trips onto the tundra were in vehicles called "rovers."  They have 6 foot tires, six wheel drive, and an enclosed, heated coach.  They follow abandoned military roads that are filled with boulders and they cross frozen lakes. Interesting experience.  David McNeely